The Early Bird Gets the Mohinga

This riveting tale is based on numerous events taken from the life of Sarah Bauer: a Myanmar Peace Corps Volunteer.

Not so long ago, in a country called Myanmar, Sarah was enjoying one of her few opportunities to sleep in on the weekend.  However, at 7:30am her phone rang and she remembered, “That’s right, I can never sleep in on the weekends.”  Her lovely aphwa (grandma, next door neighbor) said, with so much excitement, one of the very few phrases she knows in English and tells Sarah nearly every day.

“Sarah! Open the door!”

“Ok, I’m coming.”

Sarah throws on one of her two nightdresses that she wears around the house every day and opens the door to see one of the many teachers whose name she still doesn’t remember. She feels horrible about this, but each name is like a new vocab word.  She hopes she won’t quiz her like so many do.  Sarah unlocks her gate and lets her in.  She has a food carrier that doesn’t go unnoticed by Sarah.  They proceed to have a conversation in Myanmar.

“Hello Sarah!”

“Hello!”

“How are you?”

“I’m good. How are you?”

“I’m good. Are you happy in Myanmar?”

“Yes, I am happy in Myanmar.”

“Do you need anything?”

“No I don’t need anything, thank you.”

“Have you eaten yet?”

“No, I just woke up. I will cook later.”

“What will you cook?”

“Chicken curry with rice.”

“You like chicken curry?”

“Yes I do.”       

“Can you cook rice?”

“Yes, I can cook rice,”

“What else can you cook?”

“I can cook chicken, pork, egg curry, and other American foods.”

“By yourself?”

“Yes, by myself.”

“Really?”

“Really.”

 (Myanmar equivalent of “Woah” or “No way”)

“Yeah, I cook in America too.”

“Do you eat rice in America?”

“Sometimes, but not every day”

“Really?”

“Really.”

“Well what do you eat in America?”

“We eat scrambled eggs, pizza, spaghetti, tacos…”

The teacher has a confused expression because none of these foods are eaten in Myanmar.  Sarah continues,

“Myanmar food and American food are very different.”

She nods.  The teacher then gestures at the food carrier “Will you eat it?”

“Oh yes I will, thank you!”

The teacher proceeds to walk into Sarah’s kitchen and grab some plates and bowls from her shelf.  She pours Mohinga into a bowl and puts some chives, cilantro, tomatoes, and crunchy bean fritters on a plate for her to put in the Mohinga.  Mohinga is a very traditional Myanmar dish that the country is very proud of.  It has thin noodles and a fish broth that surprisingly doesn’t taste that fishy.  The teacher sits down at the table next to Sarah but has no food in front of her. 

“Do you want to eat any?” Sarah asks, knowing the answer.

“Oh no, I’ve already eaten.”

Sarah starts eating the Mohinga and the teacher smiles at her while she’s eating.  Sarah nods to show she likes it and adds in a few “Kaun deh’s” (It’s good) to assure her even more.  After the silence is long enough and the teacher has decided she’s seen enough of Sarah eating, she tries out some of her English.

“Do you remember your family?” (Remember and miss mean the same thing in Myanmar, so this is a common mistake).

“Yes I remember them.” Sarah is always tempted to answer “No, I completely forgot who they were!” but knows that nobody would understand the joke except for her.

“You like Mohinga?”

“Yes, I like Mohinga.”

She nods, pleased with the answer. “Sarah, what do you need?” (at first Sarah needed a lot of basic items in her house that people helped her attain, but by this point she’s fairly settled).

“I don’t need anything right now, thank you so much.”

The conversation shifts back to Myanmar.

“Ok ok. I will go now, ok?”

“Ok, thank you, see you later!”

“I’ll see you later, no?”

“Yes, see you later!”

The teacher waves goodbye as she drives off on her motorcycle.  Sarah is thankful for the immense amount of hospitality the people of Myanmar have, even if it means she never sleeps in anymore.  She also will remember that teacher’s name one day.  

One day.

A Morning Walk

As I walk from my hotel to school in the morning, excited to learn Myanmar but knowing the exhaustion that will sweep over me after eight hours of language in a day, I enjoy noticing little details of this ten-minute walk that could never be replicated in my life back in the States.

It all starts as I walk out of my door in the morning, making sure I have my key in my bag and enough bug spray on to cover every single inch of exposed skin, including my face.  After having six bug bites on my cheeks at one point, I’m willing to put a few more chemicals on myself than I’m typically comfortable with.  I usually knock on Paige’s door before heading out so we can walk together.  We pass the men in longyis who sit outside chewing betelnut every morning; whether it’s their job to sit out there or they’re simply passing time is unknown to us.  We leave the premises of the hotel and see about ten young monks-in-training walking in their beautiful maroon robes, collecting donations in their black buckets from anyone willing to give.  I periodically look down while walking to make sure I don’t trip over the random curves on the side of the road.  I notice the line of red dust around my toes that is now an integral part of every pair of sandals I own.  Cars and motorcycles are driving past, closer than would be acceptable in American culture, but I’m never worried (well, almost never).

We take a right turn.  On our left is a family owned market with some toddlers who are always playing with an object of some sort, be it the hem of their mother’s skirt or a stick on the ground.  On our right two men sit on the corner bench and give a quiet nod as we pass.  As we make the turn the sun shines straight into our eyes.  I put on my sunglasses and realize that I forgot to bring my water bottle to class yet again.  The view is rather mundane this part of the walk.  I pass by my sponsor family’s house and think of the evenings I’ve had stumbling through the language listing off nearly every word I know, feeling so loved even though we’ve communicated so little.  Depending on the day Paige and I either walk in silence for most of the time or discuss funny shenanigans we’ve had with other volunteers and our upcoming plans.

We take a left turn.  The green house on the right is confirmation we turned down the right road, a helpful cue for two GPS dependent souls.  Paige will almost certainly buy a banana at the upcoming market, and depending on the day I might too.  We ask how much the bananas are, even though we should really remember by this point.  I hand 500 kyat to the shopkeeper’s ten-year-old daughter who runs to give us our change back, saying thank you with the sweetest smile.  As we walk closer to the school, a few chickens and ducks accompany us along the way, the duck with a little fuzz-fro is my personal favorite.  If we’re lucky a cow might walk next to us for 10 feet or so, leaving us when it needs to take a break and eat some grass.  I look at the dogs roaming the streets and wish I could pet them all freely without worrying about testing the effectiveness of my rabies shot.

The school is now on our right and the day is about to begin.  I greet my friends and teacher and am so thankful for this amazing opportunity I’ve been given.

 

DSCN4487
My teacher and I on our last day of language class!

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Paige buying her daily dose of bananas

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Many Buddhist boys between the ages of 7-13 are expected to serve a period of a few weeks or months in a monastery as a novice monk.

 

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